Designations and classifications · Names and areas

Saint-Emilion : the land melt in question ... and at the end of the new classification

by Philippe Barret
25 September 2012 at 15h11 pm

The new classification of Saint-Emilion, unlike the previous, has not created great controversy. Nevertheless, many professionals are wondering about some choices, whose, inter alia, tolerance of the Commission for the merger between two castles : Bélair-Monange and Magdelaine.

The new classification of Saint Emilion is present a priori in a day rather consensual, much more rewarding castles that deviates. Those who worked for its revision have obviously made sure that their decisions do not create too many waves. In a sense they are perfectly fulfilled their mission, the results of their work were rather welcomed into the calm, which had not been the case in previous rankings.

But after a few days of settling, Many are those who point to some through this new classification.

The first observation, as pointed out by Stéphane Derenoncourt entrusting Nicolas de Rouyn (team Bettane & Desseauve), c’est que « Saint-Émilion appellation was the only thought which were classified according to land, Now it seems that it is very inspired 1855. "It is indeed a revolution that has been publicized very discreetly ... And many critics are upset over a ranking based on the sale price or the reputation of a wine on the quality of soil on which it is , this is a decision that raises the debate today ... and that may bring the wines of Saint-Emilion, like what is done for 1855 Left Bank, become wines whose quality is guaranteed by the commitment of a brand, the name of the castle (even if the vines have moved considerably from year to year), and not by the location of vines. Seems a bit strange when you also defends the notion of large land ... It is hard to imagine, are also, Grand Cru Romanée-Conti change gradually developed over the centuries ...

The second point that appeals to many experts is the criterion of taste seems to have been the guiding principle of this classification promotions. As highlighted with finesse Jacques Dupont The Point, " More worrying perhaps, the taste profile of many of these wines may seem quite far from the traditional burgundy style, tannic, but cool, dynamic and strong ability to guard. A number of distinguished wines are more buds international standards and practices (ripe, over-extraction of tannins, alcoholic strength, dominant woody) that keep both the land and the pleasure of drinking with meals. » Qui goûtera côte à côte Ausone et Pavie comprendra parfaitement les propos de Jacques Dupont ! And this is not the great English critic Jancis Robinson who contradict ...

Latter finally, the commission has ignored certain areas of mergers, in particular between Monange-Bélair and Magdelaine who will name only the first (but also with Grand Corbin Corbin and Top Cadet Piola melted in Soutard as Château Matras in Château Canon). There is obviously no question of banning groups capitalistic, mais doit-on pour autant accepter qu’on puisse “fusionner” les vins ? This idea gives migraine Michel Bettane in person, sur le Blog du Grand Jury Européen : " And what about the monstrosity of the merger between Belair (idiotically completed recently by a useless Monange) and Magdelaine, that just shows contempt for the owners of great historical tradition of Saint-Emilion (two castles, two close but different terroirs, two chests, two wines that never resembled), otherwise excessive kindness of the commission agreed to hide a downgrade well-deserved by a widening of tax base ... » Rappelons en effet que le terroir de Bélair est l’un des plus beaux de Saint-Emilion (Bélair has long been part of the same domain Ausone). Le nouveau classement consacre donc sa « dilution » dans d’autres sols moins nobles…

In trying to please everyone (the number of "simple" Grands Crus is spent 46 to 64 between two rankings ...) commission eventually take risks in the eyes of some professionals and even amateurs who have pointed the same findings (for example on the Forum La Passion du Vin). In contrast, it is likely that the global market sees only benefits, the situation is finally clarified after years of floating (jamais bon pour le commerce !) and the number of new winners guaranteed a priori overall price increase ...